We at Investing Simple are not financial advisors. While we are sharing best practices, your situation is unique. If you have any doubts, your best bet is to talk to a financial advisor about your personal situation.
Here’s something that doesn’t always come up in everyday conversation: your credit score.
You’ve seen the commercials about obtaining your credit score, but what, exactly, is a credit score?
For those looking for a bit of nostalgia, watch this video…
It’s actually very simple: your credit score tells lenders how trustworthy you are based on your financial history.
But what if you have absolutely no financial history? No worries. Many younger adults are facing the same dilemma. The good news is this: you can start TODAY to build up a credit history that will set you up for a healthy score tomorrow.
That means you’ll be able to secure loans you need for purchases like a car, or a lease to rent an apartment, or eventually, even a mortgage for a house. Even better, you will get those loans with competitive interest rates rather than having to pay more because lenders aren’t sure you know how to handle money.
A Brief History Of Credit Scores
A FICO score is a type of credit score created by the Fair Isaac Corporation. Upwards of 90% of top-notch United States lenders use FICO scores. Before FICO scores were in place, the process of getting loans was in slo-mo, and could also be easily unfairly biased.
Flash forward to today, when credit scores give lenders a fast, objective measurement of your credit risk. Credit scores level the playing field. Factors like your gender, race, religion, nationality and marital status are not considered by credit scoring. Scores can also be delivered in the blink of an eye, helping lenders speed up loan approvals. Today many credit decisions can be made within minutes.
Even a mortgage application can be approved in hours instead of weeks. Scoring also allows retail stores, Internet sites and other lenders to make “instant credit” decisions.
Credit dings now have a shelf life. Prior to use of FICO scoring, any delinquency on your part could mar your financial history for decades. Now, past credit problems fade as time passes and more up-to-date timely payments will replace them.
What Credit Score To Aim For
Investing Simple is affiliated with Credit Land.
Credit scores generally run with a range between 300-850. For most people, their score falls between 600 and 750, with a score of 700 or above considered good. Log in a score of 800 or above, and you’ve reached the status of excellent.
The higher your score, the more likely that you’ve made very good credit decisions. This, in turn can make creditors more confident that you will repay your future debts and fulfill your commitments to them. You win, they win. No brainer.
Curious about your score? Check it here.
If you have been irresponsible in the past with credit card use, don’t sweat it. The good news is your credit score can be repaired! Derogatory marks against your credit are not permanent. Even with a bad credit score, you can still get approved for some credit cards to rebuild your credit and start fresh!
Who Looks At Credit Scores?
Credit scores are used by lenders, including banks, that provide mortgage loans, credit card companies, and even car dealerships financing auto purchases, to make decisions about whether or not to offer a credit card or a loan.
Just as important as loan approval is what’s in the small print: the terms of the offer. Terms include the rate of interest and the down payment. As you can imagine, you want to secure a loan with the lowest possible interest, and if you’ve hit a home run with a credit score of, say, 820, you’re in a much better position to negotiate.
How Long Does It Take To Build Good Credit?
It doesn’t take an inordinate amount of time to build up a solid credit history. According to information from some of the major credit bureaus, you can build an average or good credit score in about a year or two. But beyond that, it can take as much as five to seven years to build an excellent credit score of 750 or higher.
It’s possible to build good credit in just a handful of years, but you would need to open at least a few accounts of each type (loans and credit cards) and be 100 percent devoted to making payments on time. Keep in mind, the shorter your credit history, the more a single late payment will tarnish your reputation. And you’re shooting for gold here, not silver.
Most people with credit scores in the top 10 percent (around 800 or better) have at least 10 years of credit history. That’s because the average age of your credit accounts is one of the weightier factors for your score. The longer your accounts have been open and in good standing, the higher the score.
Here is a helpful video on how to build your credit score in 30 days!
Credit Score 101
Here’s a quick overview of factors that are top priority when launching your plan to build good credit:
- Your payment history. Repeat this mantra: Pay all bills on time. Pay all bills on time. Pay all bills – you get it. A payment that’s 30 days late or more will cause your score to plummet.
- Best practice calls for paying off the ENTIRE amount owed on a credit card every month, rather than carrying a balance over from month to month. That’s how interest charges rack up quickly.
- How much credit you are using: Aim to use 30 percent or less of your available credit at all times. If you have a card with a $3,500 limit, by no means should you go crazy and charge $3,499 worth of purchases.
- The length of your credit history does come into play, but if you’re only in your 20s, lenders aren’t expecting you to have decades of spending history. They know you didn’t start borrowing and paying back money when you were a toddler.
6 Tips For Building Your Credit Score
1. Talk your parents into letting you become an authorized user on their credit card.
Beg, bribe, cajole, do whatever it takes to get your name onto Dad’s credit card, because this option allows you to benefit from the age of someone else’s account (and we all know how o-l-d Dad is!)
One quick caveat: Be certain that the primary cardholder (Dad) has an excellent track record of making payments. You don’t want to hang on the coattails of someone with their own credit woes!
Also, always be certain and get confirmation that the credit card company reports authorized user activity to the credit bureaus. This is what will pop a positive blip onto your score. You want the activity on the card to spotlight your smart spending as well as Dad’s.
This tip also works for suckering – I mean, convincing – Mom, another family member or even an older friend to let you become an authorized user.
2. Get a secured credit card.
If you didn’t manage to sweet talk the parental units into adding you as an authorized user, go to your bank or credit union for a secured credit card. These require a deposit, which usually runs from $200 to $2000, which becomes, in essence, your line of credit.
As you can imagine, you will need an income to qualify for a secured credit card, but for this type of credit, rules aren’t as stringent as those that apply to obtaining a traditional unsecured card.
Banks and financial institutions that issue secured credit cards have their own rules and regs for where your deposit must be – such as a checking or savings account.
Then – and this is crucial – pay off the balance on the card MONTHLY and ON TIME to avoid late fees and other penalties. Remember, if you’re not showing consistent payments, you’re not building credit, you’re digging yourself into a hole.
Also, do your due diligence and check that reports are made to at least one credit bureau. That’s the only way to ensure your efforts won’t be for naught.
When your score rises into the low 600s, make your best effort to get yourself a conventional credit card. Even though by that time you’ll be playing in the big leagues, keep your wits about you and follow the same best practices for paying off your debt each month to avoid interest and late fees.
Ready to get started? Apply for a secured credit card here!
3. Get a cosigner.
Ok, so failed on the scheme of becoming an authorized user on Dad’s credit card? Guilt him into this option then. Take out a small loan, say for a standard grade preowned vehicle, and ask that loving family member (who already has good credit) to cosign for you.
A cosigner is simply someone who agrees to be responsible for the loan if you stop paying your bills for any reason. Which, of course, you won’t do.
Most financial institutions will approve a loan for somebody with no credit history IF there is a cosigner boasting a stellar score on the application. But keep in mind, you stand to put your dad’s credit score in the toilet if you default on the loan.
What does default mean? It means you – gasp – stop making payments entirely. Let us say this one more time: If someone cosigns a loan for you and you don’t make timely payments, your cosigner’s credit will suffer along with your own.
If you default on the loan, your cosigner is legally responsible to repay the debt. This situation has ruined plenty of close relationships and broken up even the best of friends. Proceed with caution.
4. Take out a student loan.
You’ll start building a flourishing credit history as soon as you open a student loan account. Every type of student loan, including private, federal and refinance loans, appear on your credit report, and eventually count toward your burgeoning score.
Borrow federal loans first, since they have better borrower protections, like repayment plans strongly based on your income, as well as forgiveness subplans.
More good news: Most don’t even require a credit check.
For starters, fill out the Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA) to get your application rolling.
Private student loans are based on credit, so most undergrads need a cosigner to qualify. Keep in mind that the loan will appear on both your credit report, as the student, and the cosigner’s simultaneously. Before you take any steps towards applying, shop around. Compare multiple loan options to get the lowest interest rate you can possibly qualify for, then go for it.
After you’ve gotten the diploma and scarfed down the graduation cake and the loan has aged a bit, you can expect to see a score in the 600s. That’s the time to refinance your student loan to get a lower monthly payment and/or a lower interest rate. It also merges multiple loans into one main account. This will also give your score a boost, because you
will have fewer accounts with open balances.
5. Take out a credit builder loan.
Peruse the sites of local community banks and credit unions to see the terms they offer for credit builder loans.
This loan works by stashing away the money you borrow in a savings account. When you take out a credit builder loan, the money you borrow sits in a savings account, which you’ll have access to at the end of the loan term.
You’ll need income to show you can afford the payments, so choose a low loan amount.
As you make on time payments toward the loan, the financial institution reports that activity to the credit bureaus. You’ll end up with better credit and some money saved, making it a win-win.
When your score reaches the mid-600s, you can apply for a traditional, unsecured credit card. If you’re still under 21 at that time, though, you’ll also need to prove that you have a steady income from a full time job.
6. Take out a student credit card.
Student credit cards are designed for young people looking to obtain their first line of credit. This can be a much better option than those high interest store credit cards that the cashiers may lure you in to!
Typically, a student credit card has minimal or no cash back rewards. It is designed and is set up to help you build credit. It isn’t a secured card, but it is very similar. The credit limit is typically a lot lower than a traditional cash back credit card.
This can be a great option for students looking to enter the adult realm by using a credit card RESPONSIBLY! I repeat, responsible use of credit cards is the most important part. Buy your gas on your credit card and pay it off monthly, or even weekly!
Ready to get started? Apply for a student credit card here!
Nuts And Bolts Of Credit Reporting
These credit reports include 4 facets of information about you:
- Identifying information. These are the general facts about you as an individual, your vital stats: name, address, social security number, birthday. This is used only to ID you; it doesn’t come into play when putting together your credit score.
- Credit accounts, also known as tradelines. These are all your current and past credit accounts, reported by your lenders and creditors. These are your credit cards, mortgages, student loans or auto loans. They get right down to the nitty-gritty, such as the date you opened the account, your credit limit or loan amount, the account balance, and your payment history.
- Inquiries. These are the various companies that have pulled a copy of your credit report, sometimes known as an “inquiry.” There are two types: “soft” inquiries and “hard” inquiries. “Soft” inquiries could be your own peek at your credit history, inquiries by companies extending you preapproved offers for credit cards, or inquiries made by your current creditors taking a look at your credit (aka account monitoring). “Soft” inquiries can only be seen by you, not potential lenders or creditors. “Hard” inquiries happen when a potential lender opens your credit history after you’ve applied for credit, maybe a new loan or credit card. These can sit on your credit report for up to 24 months. While hard inquiries do impact credit scores, soft inquiries do not.
- Bankruptcies and collections. Anytime you’ve been – gasp – bankrupt (this will never happen to you, right? Right?) or had past due accounts turned over to collection agencies…. these will also be listed on your credit report. Be forewarned, open accounts with doctors, hospitals and even cable or utility companies could also be part of your credit report. So be smart, pay off your debts before they come back to bite you!
How The Credit Score Is Calculated
Now that you have a general understanding of credit scores, here are some meat and potatoes about the types of info used to calculate your score.
First, payment history.
Payment history is by far the most important factor in credit scores. Repeat this mantra: pay on time, pay on time. It is top priority to pay your bills on time, every time. Any late payment is going to have a huge impact on credit scores.
Your payment history accounts for about 35 percent of a credit score.
Second, credit utilization.
Utilization, or the amount of your credit limit vs. how much you’ve used. This is the second most important criteria in credit scores. You never want a balance to be higher than 30 percent of the credit limit on a single credit card. In other words, if your ceiling is $5,000 on a specific card, keep your balance under $1,500. In fact, the lower the utilization, the better it reflects on your score. And remember to pay balances off in full to sidestep interest charges.
People with the most stellar credit scores have zero late payments and utilization rates of less than 10 percent. Your utilization rate accounts for about 30 percent of your credit score. These two factors weigh in at almost two-thirds of your score. Paying your bills on time, every time, and keeping your balances low on your credit cards are the foundation of your credit score.
But wait, there’s more!
Third, credit history.
Length of credit history is based on the number of months or years each of your accounts has been open, and also how long it’s been since you used specific accounts. A longer credit history can increase your credit scores.
Length of your history represents about 15 percent of your FICO score.
Fourth, recent credit inquiries.
Recent activity looks at how much new credit you’ve applied for in the past handful of months. Applications for credit show up as new inquiries. Recent activity that comes into play also includes paying off any of your accounts, and whether account balances
have gone up or down significantly.
Recent credit accounts for 10 percent of a FICO score.
Fifth, credit mix.
Credit mix refers to the myriad types of accounts you’ve accumulated, such as mortgages, credit cards, auto loans, and other installment loans. Having a thriving variety of credit types can help increase your score somewhat, but don’t go crazy and apply for several accounts all at once to try to improve your credit mix! That rash move will probably do more harm than good because of the spike it will make in your recent credit activity. Make a vow to use credit judiciously, and you’ll gradually have a good mix of credit types over time.
The mix of various types of credit is 10 percent of a FICO score.
Here is a great video that explains how the FICO score is calculated.
Good News For Renters! (Pay Attention)
If you’re a tenant, there’s more good news: you can use your monthly rent payments to improve your credit score dramatically. If you’ve been a renter, your landlord has had the right to report you to credit bureaus for late payments, which is a powerful position. But even if you paid on time, every time, that good track record didn’t register on your credit score. Now, there’s rent reporting through sites like RentTrack.
Set up an account with RentTrack and pay your rent online, then watch your score build with all three credit bureaus. According to the site, on average, scores increase by 51 points. Plus, renters with no credit see an average score of 660 after reporting their rent payments.
Here’s how it works:
You can use RentTrack with any landlord – they don’t have to sign up or even provide receipts for your payments. You simply pop your check into the mail to them. Your money stays in your own personal bank account until your landlord gets and deposits it.
Here’s the clincher:
Each time you pay online, your rent payment is automatically reported to all three credit bureaus as a transaction with good indicators. Voila!
Bad Credit Score = Higher Car Insurance
It’s a formula that won’t make you happy, but is in fact a reality. Car insurance companies use your credit history to figure out the odds that you’ll file a claim.
What do the two have in common? According to recent studies, drivers with low credit scores have a track record of filing up to 40 percent more claims! No wonder they shy away from taking that risk and issuing a policy.
But if and when they do grant a policy, it’s going to come with a hefty price tag attached. Estimates show people with low scored pay anywhere from 20 to 50 percent more on vehicle insurance as compared with those boasting better scores.
Remember, there are many other factors in determining your car insurance rates, for example, your driving history, the type of vehicle, where you live and a long list of other variables that may be beyond your control. As far as your credit history, well, that’s in your capable hands.
This also applies to leasing a vehicle. The minimum most car dealers will accept is a score in the lower 600s, so that’s something to aim for. If you have not yet established credit, dealers will likely want a higher than usual down payment and will charge a higher interest rate. By the same token however, on-time payments will drive your score higher, so this can be a good thing.
Another tip: keep a close eye on your credit report.
Once you’ve established a credit score using these brilliant tips, it’s a good idea to habitually review your report through sites like Credit Karma, Discover Credit Score Card and others. Recent studies have shown that almost 70 percent of all credit reports have some type of errors on them. Fixing them can lead to a quick acceleration of your credit score and could potentially lower your car insurance premiums.
Curious about your credit score? Check it here.
Final Word On Credit Score
One final tip we just can’t NOT share with you: Once you’ve built your credit history and are ready to drive in the fast lane…be very careful with retail store credit cards. These are frequently the card of choice for novices who lack fundamentals of managing credit.
These cards are offered (read: pushed as a hard sell) at every checkout in every store because they benefit the company so hugely. They have high interest rates, and worse, encourage binge shopping that quickly erases that 20% off perk for applying.
They’re enticing and easy to get because they generally have lower credit limits than major credit cards. What does that mean? It means you’re more likely to get the rubber stamp of approval even with scant credit history.
But don’t be lured in! If you must take out a retail store card, make small purchases and pay off before penalties and interest start stacking up. Sure, it would be nice to outfit the entire fam in GAP apparel at the holidays, but hold back and just get Dad a nice scarf. You owe him, after all, for the co-sign.
But we’re not trying to promote credit cards as being a no-no. Used wisely, they can be a good part of your overall balanced monthly budget. Some even hand out hefty perks, such as cash back, air flight miles or even nifty gifts like pop-up lanterns and flannel blankets.
Take advantage of all they have to offer – but make sure to ALWAYS pay off the entire amount on your card each month to avoid interest charges and nullify your chances of late payments.
Remember; credit cards are not the root of all evil. Responsible credit card use will improve your credit score resulting in benefits like cheaper car insurance and lower rates on auto loans. For those who enjoy traveling, some credit cards offer great rewards like airline miles on purchases.
Credit cards are designed for you to misuse them. Credit card companies want you to rack up a CRAZY high balance that you are paying high interest on. By knowing how to play by your rules, not theirs, you can reap the benefits without paying them a penny in interest!
Got any credit score tips or horror stories? Comment below…